I primarily use Priority Mail, but you can send your items via USPS, UPS, or FedEx. If you're local, a lower-cost option could be USPS Ground Advantage, though it can take longer depending on distance. Packing Instructions Clipper Blades: If you don’t have a blade box, wrap each blade individually or in pairs to prevent metal-on-metal contact, which can break teeth or cause blades to get lost—something I’ve seen too often. A blade box is ideal, but be sure to secure the lid and fill any empty space in your package to prevent movement. I sell blade boxes for $5.00. In any package, fill any empty space in the to keep item secure during shipping. Avoid plastic zip bags for clipper blades, as they can trap moisture and cause blades to rust. Scissors: If you don’t have scissor sleeves or tip protectors, make sure to wrap the points in bubble wrap, paper, or another protective material so they don’t puncture the package. I have scissor cases available for 1-4 pairs—email me at brucesharp1@yahoo.com if interested. Clippers: Protect your clippers with foam or bubble wrap. Important Reminders Avoid zip bags, as they trap moisture and can cause rust. Include your mailing information, phone number, and email inside the package. A list of the items sent is helpful. If your clippers have any issues, please include a note describing the problem. Shipping Address For USPS: Bruce’s Sharpening PO Box 41 Maxatawny, PA 19538 For FedEx or UPS: Bruce’s Sharpening 15868 Kutztown Rd Maxatawny, PA 19538

I accept Check, Money Order, PayPal, and Credit Card (Visa & Mastercard). At this time, I do not accept Cash Apps. PayPal payments can be sent to: brucesharp1@yahoo.com Some groomers prefer to send a signed check, allowing me to fill in the amount. I will return a copy of the completed check for your records. An invoice will be included in your returned package. I can also email an invoice if requested. Prompt payment is expected, and timely payments ensure smooth service—and may even earn you some extra goodwill on your next order!

I strive for same-day turnaround whenever possible, but depending on holidays, weekends, workload, or unforeseen events, it may take 1-2 days or more. Since May 2013, my local post office has only been open 4 hours a day, which can occasionally cause delays. Recommended Shipping Methods - Priority Mail: - Typically delivers in 2 days from Florida to New Hampshire. - California shipments usually take 2-4 days. - Best for blades, scissors, or small clippers: Use the Priority Mail Small Flat Rate Box or the Padded Flat Rate Envelope for the most cost-effective option. - Flat Rate Small Box shipping starts at $10.75 (subject to USPS rate increases). - USPS offers free Priority Mail boxes in various sizes. - Ground Advantage (USPS): - A lower-cost alternative if you’re not in a hurry. - Can save money on shipping but takes longer. - Larger Orders or Heavier Items: - The Medium or Large Flat Rate Boxes may offer the best value for bulkier shipments. - UPS and FedEx can sometimes be more affordable for larger or heavier items—worth checking rates before shipping. Weekend Shipping Considerations - Weekend work may not ship until Monday due to my local post office’s limited 2-hour Saturday hours. - If you’re in a rush, letting me know can help me schedule accordingly.

I’ve been sharpening for over two decades, refining my skills through years of hands-on experience. In that time, I’ve worked with countless blades, scissors, and clippers, ensuring precision and top-quality results. Let’s just say—I’ve gotten pretty good at it!

Local Drop-Off & Pick-Up For those nearby, my home shop is located on State Highway 222: 15868 Kutztown Road, Maxatawny, PA 19538 (Eastbound side) Between Kutztown (6 miles east) and Allentown (8 miles west) on Route 222 Also known as Hamilton Blvd when coming from Allentown Look for the sign in the yard 24/7 Drop-Off Box A secure drop-off and pick-up box is available outside the garage 24/7. Leave your money in the box anywhere, we check the box frequently. The box is monitored by camera, and a motion sensor light turns on after sunset. Tags, pens, business cards, and envelopes are provided inside the box. Fill out one tag with your name and phone number, even if dropping off multiple items. You will be contacted when your sharpening is complete and ready for pickup.

Rust buildup can make clipper blade screws difficult to remove. Try these solutions: Apply WD-40 and let it sit for a few minutes. Use a screwdriver and tap the handle with a hammer to loosen the screw. A pneumatic screw driver can apply more torque so if you have one try that. If the screw remains stuck, consult a professional sharpener who can drill it out and replace it. Regularly cleaning and oiling the blade prevents rust from seizing screws over time.

Most pet grooming clippers use A5 detachable blades, which are interchangeable across brands like Andis, Oster, Wahl, and Butter Cut and many others on the market. The popular Wahl Arco clipper is used by many groomers and vegetarians which uses an adjustable cut blade. Andis and others have made compatible copies of these blades but many cannot be sharpened unlike the Wahl Arco blade. Hair salons use a much less blade compatible types of clippers. The Oster 76 barber clipper uses regular A5 detachable blades, but these use a different numbering system. Some of the sizes are the same as grooming A5's but a few are inbetween A5 sizes. Many other clippers used in the hair salons use a variety of blade sizes, especially trimmers many of which cannot be sharpened or are simply not cost effective to sharpen.

Clipper blade cutters come in two primary materials: Steel Cutters: Durable and less prone to breakage Require oiling to prevent rust Less expensive than ceramic Ceramic Cutters: Stay sharper longer but are more brittle Ideal for reducing heat buildup during extended use Must be properly oiled to prevent guide wear Need diamond to sharpen them which few sharpers can do. Bruce's Sharpening can. If your clippers end up on the floor often, steel may be the better choice due to its durability.

Clipper blades should be sharpened as soon as they begin to dull. Signs include: Tugging or pulling instead of cutting smoothly Increased heat during use Reduced cutting efficiency, even after cleaning and oiling New blades are mostly mass produced so a few lemons may not cut until professionally sharpened. If a blade stops cutting, test with a known sharp blade to determine if the issue lies with the clipper drive or blade sharpness. A battery powered clipper's battery may need charging or replacing.

The lifespan of a clipper blade depends on: The amount of metal removed per sharpening The thickness of the cutter and comb blade rails The quality of maintenance and lubrication And of course how much use a blade gets. Most professional grooming and A5 barber blades can be sharpened multiple times. Large animal blades such as the Lister, Clipmaster, Andis Progress and Sheep blades, being thicker, can be sharpened more times.. If a blade loses tension despite being sharp, replacing the cutter or adjusting the spring tension may extend its use.

Top-rated clipper blade brands include: Andis Oster Wahl While many generic brands offer competitive pricing, quality can vary. If a new blade tugs or pulls hair, professional sharpening will be necessary. The recent popularity of wide blades since Covid has many new companies offering wide blades but many need professional sharpening initially.

If freshly sharpened clipper blades don’t cut properly, possible causes include: Dirty or matted hair: Grooming works best on clean, dry fur. You may need to start with a skip tooth blade of the same size as your finishing blade. Incorrect spring tension: Too little tension allows hair to get between blades; too much creates excess friction. Blades not hollow ground but only flat ground. Worn blade drive: A faulty blade drive may need replacing. Common in Andis AG, Oster A5's Improper sharpening: If tension adjustments don’t help, the sharpening process may have been flawed. Honing disks need to be occasionally recut and your sharpener may have waited too long to have his done. Or he simply may not know what he's doing sadly. Ensure proper blade maintenance and consult a professional if problems persist.

Blade sizes determine how much hair is left after trimming. You can find detailed charts online, such as: Pet Worshiper Blade Size Guide Clipit Grooming Blade Chart AllGroom Blade Guide If unsure, consult a professional groomer or use detachable comb attachments for added length control.

Skip Tooth Blades: Designed for thick or matted coats Feature alternating short and long teeth for faster cutting Leave a coarser finish but helps break through dense hair Finish Blades: Have evenly spaced teeth for a smoother cut Best used after a skip tooth blade for a polished look Less effective on matted fur but ideal for a clean, even trim Choosing the right blade depends on coat type and grooming needs.

Hollow grinding is a specialized sharpening technique used on grooming blades to reduce friction and improve cutting precision by keeping the cutter and comb blade in close contact.. Grooming Blades: Typically hollow ground for smoother operation. Grinding blades hollow allows more pressure to be put on the tips. Flat grinding can allow hair to get between the cutter and comb and cutting stops at that point. Adjustable Clipper Blades: The comb blade is flat, while the cutter blade is most often hollow ground. Hollow grinding requires high-end equipment and cannot be replicated with DIY tools. If a blade is not properly hollow ground, it may jam or fail to cut efficiently.

The best way to sharpen clipper blades is to have them professionally serviced. Clipper blades require specialized hollow grinding equipment to restore their precise cutting edges. Professional sharpeners use precision grinding disks, ensuring even sharpness across the entire blade and the hollow grinding gives better blade performance. Avoid at-home sharpening tools, as improper grinding can ruin the blade and affect performance.

Failure to oil clipper blades leads to: Faster wear and dulling of the blade Increased heat buildup, making grooming uncomfortable for pets Possible rust formation, reducing blade lifespan Additional strain on the clipper motor, potentially causing damage Most manufacturers recommend using clipper blade oil, typically a white mineral oil. However, any lubrication is better than none.

Regular maintenance is essential to keep clipper blades sharp and functional. Here’s how to care for them properly: Clean After Every Use: Remove hair and debris to prevent buildup that can dull the blade or cause jams. Oil Frequently: Apply clipper oil before, during, and after use to reduce friction and prevent varnish buildup. Use Blade Wash: Products like Andis Blade Care or Oster Blade Wash, H41 help remove dirt and extend blade life. Keep the clipper pointed downward to prevent liquid from entering the motor. Especially vital on Andis Ag, AGC, Ultraedge and similar models. Armatures can burn out if liquid gets inside. Armatures are usually the most expensive part of an Andis. Store in a Dry Place: Blades are prone to rust, so avoid humid environments. Do not store in plastic bags unless completely dry. Regular sharpening and proper storage will keep your blades in peak condition for longer use. Some store blade in oil, usually large animal blades used in farms.

Clipper blades function like a series of tiny, high-speed scissors. The cutter blade, equipped with sharp edges, moves back and forth across the stationary comb blade, shearing hair with precision. This movement is powered by the clipper drive, which fits into the notch of the cutter blade. Several key components ensure smooth operation: Blade Drive: Wears over time and requires replacement to maintain cutting efficiency. Spring Tension: The metal spring on top of the blade applies pressure to keep the blades together. If tension is too low, hair can get trapped, causing jams. If too high, the blade moves too slowly, generating excess heat and wearing down the clipper drive. Plastic Guide Piece: Located on the end of the spring, this reduces friction. If missing or broken, blade tension will be insufficient. Blade Socket: Connects the blade to the clipper hinge. If the socket becomes loose or misaligned, the blade may rattle or rock, affecting performance. Routine maintenance, including proper tension adjustments and cleaning, ensures optimal blade performance and longevity.

Yes! I provide clipper tune-ups with same-day turnaround in most cases. A standard tune-up includes cleaning, oiling, greasing, and replacing common parts—which I keep in stock for most major brands. Brands I Service I work on Andis, Oster, Wahl, and Lister clippers. However, not all models have replacement parts available. Many Chinese-made brands lack parts, and newer models often don’t have replacement parts released until after warranties expire. Since COVID, some parts remain unavailable to wholesalers. How Often Should Clippers Be Serviced? - If used heavily, clippers should get a full service every 6-12 months. - Daily cleaning of accumulated hair is essential to keep them running smoothly. - Clippers under manufacturer warranty should usually be sent to the brand’s service center. Is It Worth Repairing My Clippers? In most cases, yes! The cost of new clippers has increased significantly since COVID, after staying stable for years. Unless you’re after a shiny new pair, most clippers can be restored to work for many years. I still receive Oster A2 clippers from the 1980s that are still going strong!

There are several reasons why a clipper may run slow, lose power, or stop working entirely. Battery-Powered Clippers Over time, batteries weaken and fail, leading to shorter run times. If your clipper only holds a charge for a few minutes, the battery likely needs to be replaced. Battery life can be extended by following the manufactures recommendations, generally not over charging or letting the battery go completely dead will help extend life. Corded Clippers Oster A5, 76 and older A2’s use sleeve bearings instead of ball bearings like most other brands. A drop or impact can misalign the bearings, causing friction, heat, and slow running. This requires realignment with an amp meter, best done by a repair shop. More recent Oster models like the A6 use a DC motor with ball bearings. A damaged motor armature can cause reduced power or prevent the clipper from running at all. Testing with an ohm meter can determine if the armature or field coil is faulty. Oster A5’s use a copper wound coil. Clippers like Andis use a solid magnet field incased in a metal shell. Multi-speed clippers that lose a speed usually need a new switch or electronic board. Andis clippers (AG, Ultraedge, AGR and others) use a solid magnet inside a metal shell—Even a small crack in the magnet from dropping the clipper can cause overheating and performance issues. A damaged power cord can cause intermittent power loss and should be replaced. Badly worn or missing spring can lead to inconsistent performance. Need a Repair? I service and repair most grooming clipper brands, diagnosing and fixing common issues to keep your clippers running at peak performance. If you're experiencing slow running, overheating, or power loss, send your clipper in to Bruce's Sharpening for service.

Yes, you should! Allowing hair and debris to build up inside your clipper can lead to internal damage and overheating due to restricted airflow. If your model has an air screen, keep it clean to ensure proper ventilation. Additionally, gunk can accumulate in the spaces of your comb blade, preventing hair from reaching the cutter effectively. To maintain optimal performance, regularly brush out any buildup. Clippers that have screen are usually the large animal clippers like the Oster Clipmaster and Lister star. The lister star is particularly susceptible to stopping if the filter is clogged. Blowing out the hair from inside using compressed air may be necessary. A Q-tip can help clean smaller areas, a bit of solvent may be needed in metal areas. Do not use liquids to clean a clipper that may get inside causing shorts or failure. Be sensible.

In Andis clippers, a broken blade drive may be the issue. In geared clippers like the Oster A5 or 76, the fiber gear may have stripped teeth or seized to the gear shaft due to insufficient grease. Lister clippers also use a plastic gear that can strip if the blade tension is too high or if the cutter and comb have rusted together from lack of oiling. For Andis models like the AG and AGC and similar the blade drive cam may have loosened, often requiring replacement. Unfortunately, Andis is not currently supplying individual cam drives. The fix is to replace the entire armature a repair that costs over $50. While this is one of the pricier repairs for these models, it is still more cost-effective than purchasing a new clipper.

Most likely cause is the filter has become clogged and the thermal breaker tripped. You have to replace the filter and push in the thermal reset button at the rear of the body. If the clipper is running but the blade isn't moving and you hear a loud shrill sound the clipper blade is rusted together and the plastic gear in the head is stripped. This is a send out to get fixed problem as the gear and shaft have to be pressed out and a new gear pressed in. Musch less frequent failures to run is an open wire in the power cord or a switch board failure. Very rare in my experience. Another lister problem is blade rattle. This is usually caused by the blade seating guides which are made of plastic becoming worn and need to be replaced. This is a 2 piece with the plastic blade guide having a metal pin driven down the hole. The tension needs to be set properly for the blade to work without excessive heat. Turn the tension knob completely down then back off 1 1;2 turns. As the blade dulls you can try slightly increasing the tension but if that doesn't work the blade is DULL and needs to be professionally sharpened.

If your clipper isn’t running, try these quick checks before seeking repairs: Check the power source – Ensure the clipper is plugged in and the outlet is working by testing another device. Manually test the blade drive – If you can push the blade drive or turn the armature drive and the clipper starts running, the armature has a bad segment and needs to be replaced. Inspect the power cord – A break in the cord can prevent power from reaching the clipper. Examine the brushes – Worn-out brushes can stop the clipper from running entirely. If the clipper was dropped, the brushes may be stuck. Try lightly tapping near the brush area with a screwdriver handle to reseat them. Check internal components – A blown switch board, bad coil, or faulty contacts can also cause the clipper to stop working. These issues likely requires professional repair. I service most grooming clipper brands and can diagnose and fix common electrical issues.

If you’ve disassembled your clipper and can’t get it back together, here’s what to do: Get a zip bag and carefully place all the loose parts inside. Double-check to make sure you have all the parts. Send it to Bruce’s Sharpening. Next time take photo's before taking apart and during disassembly. Have a tray or container to keep smaller parts. Laying out the parts in the same position as inside the clipper is useful. The same applies if you’ve taken apart a clipper blade and it’s not working now. Don’t worry, you’re not the first—it happens! Your sharpener can fix it for you, don't throw it away.

YES: Most clipper housings are available for replacement, but for older or obsolete models, these parts may no longer be in stock. The same issue applies to drive covers, so it's best to ask before sending your clipper in for service if you feel it needs a replacement case (housing). Since Covid, parts have been harder to obtain, and some are no longer sold to wholesalers. Hopefully, the supply chain will improve over time and make these parts more accessible again.

The method varies slightly depending on your brand and model. Andis Clipper Models (AG, AGC, AGR, Ultraedge, and others) These models all use the same blade drive. To replace it: Remove the drive cover on newer models. Remove the two #1 Phillips head screws. On the AG and AG2 models, you’ll need to remove the upper housing to access the drive. Be careful not to mix up the body screws; the front screws are longer than the rear ones. Pry out the old drive, and move the drive bearing toward the bottom of the clipper. The drive has two thin wings that fit into a slot—spread the drive slightly and push it down into place. Reinstall the 2 screws. It can help to loosen the hinge screws. If your clipper has a vacuum head, do not over-tighten the screws. Over-tightening may pull the brass inserts up, potentially requiring a new motor head. Oster A5 and Oster 76 Models Remove the drive cover two #2 phillips screws (some have flat head but most Phillips). Pry off the worn plastic drive lever with needle-nose pliers. While you're at it, remove the drive link and fiber gear. Apply grease to the top of the gear shaft using an Oster grease tube until it comes out of the two small gear shaft holes. Check the thrust washer (a small square black plastic piece in front of the armature). If it's has a hole in it replace. Turn otherwise to a new face. Other Models (Wahl, Oster A6, etc.) Some models, like the Wahl KM's and Oster A6, require separating the housing to access the drive. Apply a small amount of grease to the drive post or bearing when re-assembling. These repairs are often best handled by a professional sharpener or repair technician. I handle these repairs at Bruce’s Sharpening.

A broken latch will fail to keep the clipper blade tight to the clipper body. You may notice that the latch no longer holds the blade in place properly causing the blade to stop cutting if it get too far from the blade drive or just be very noisy. The small hook at the top of the latch can break off, which would require the latch to be replaced. Note that the latch has two small holes designed to fit over the wire pins of the hinge assembly. If these holes no longer align correctly or if the latch is bent, it can cause problems with holding the blade in place. If the latch seems out of shape or the blade doesn’t stay securely attached, it's likely that the latch is bent or broken and needs attention. Make sure when you are placing the latch on the hinge that the two pins stay in the two latch holes. You push the latch upwards until the latch hook lays flat over the top of the hinge.

Unplug the clipper for safety. For the Lister Star, remove the tension knob and spring and drop the blade screw. Lift off the comb and cutter blades. For the Andis Progress and Oster Clipmaster it helps to first loosen the tension knob by turning it left to ease the blade tension. Loosen the two blade screws slightly, then slide out the bottom blade and lift off the top cutter blade. Note: The yoke the cutter blade sits on has two cone-shaped pins that fit into the two holes in the cutter blade. Oil both blades before replacing them, clear mineral oil or other light oil. Place the new cutter blade on the two pins with the back side down. Slide the large bottom blade back into position, ensuring it fits properly into the head. Check the alignment of both blades to ensure they are even (parallel). Adjust them as needed. Tighten the screws firmly to secure the blades in place. Run the clipper and adjust the tension knob to ensure the blades are cutting properly. Avoid applying too much tension, as excessive tension can overheat the blades and motor. For the Lister Star, fully tighten the tension knob, then back it off 1 ½ turns. With the new blades installed and properly aligned, your clipper should be ready for optimal performance!

Follow these detailed steps to replace the switch in Andis pet grooming clippers (including AG and AGC models): 1. Unplug the Clipper Always start by unplugging the clipper for safety. For Andis AG Model: Remove the 4 Body Screws: Take out the screws and carefully separate the case. Lift Off the Switch Actuator: Gently lift off the actuator to access the switch. Disconnect the Wires: Disconnect the two power wires from the switch board terminal block (AGC model). On the AG model, lift up the connectors to remove the power wires. Remove the Black and Red Wires: Use a small flathead screwdriver to pry the wires out of the brush holder. Remove the Left Switch Holding Screw: Unscrew and lift out the old switch board, replacing it with a new one. Reattach the Wires: Reconnect the red and black wires to the brush holder (black on the left, red on the right). If the wires are loose, slightly bend the tabs to secure them. Reconnect the Power Cord Terminals: Ensure the grooves on the terminals are facing down. Reinstall the Switch Actuator: Attach the switch actuator back into place. If the hanger wire fell off, return it under the power cord with the white wire to the right. Reassemble the Case: Place the upper case back on the clipper. Secure the Case: Use the 4 screws to secure the case. Note that the short screws go in the back, and the long screws go in the front. Tip: If the blade drive is worn, replace it before closing the case. For Andis AGC Model: Disconnect the Brush and Power Wires: Remove the wires from the terminal block (white power wire to the right). Remove the Switch Screws: Unscrew and remove the two screws holding the switch in place. Install the New Switch: Place the new switch in position and reconnect the power and brush wires (white power wire to the right). Replace the Upper Case: Reinstall the upper case and secure it with the 4 screws (short screws in the back, long screws in the front). Check the Wire Hanger: Ensure the wire hanger stays in place. Test the Clipper: Plug the clipper back in and test its functionality. By following these steps, you’ll replace the switch and restore the clipper’s functionality. Make sure all connections are secure and that the clipper is reassembled correctly for optimal performance.

Replacing the cord on your clippers is a straightforward process that works similarly for most models, except for the Oster A2, A5, 76 models. Follow these steps: Unplug the clipper. Remove the body screws (usually 4 screws), keeping track of their positions, as screw lengths often vary. Take a photo of the current wiring setup to ensure you know where each wire connects. Remove the old cord and replace it with the exact one, each cord can be unique. The hanger wire may come off so keep track if there was one. Depending on the model, the wiring may connect in different ways: Some wires screw into a terminal block. Others may have push-on connectors. Some models require soldering. Some, like the Wahl KM series use a small cord clamp with two screws Reassemble the clipper: Before putting on the upper housing make sure the hanger wire is in place. Carefully put the body half back on, ensuring the correct screws are used in the correct spots. Tighten the screws but avoid over-tightening—ensure the housing is secure but not forced. Take your time with the wiring to ensure everything is connected correctly. If you're unsure, it might be best to send or take the clipper to a professional for assistance.

Follow these steps to properly grease the gearbox on your Clipmaster clippers: Unplug the clipper for safety. Remove the two screws from the front of the clipper head, near the tension knob. These screws are long with lock washers. Pull the head assembly away from the clipper body. Inside the head, you’ll find a hole where the armature screw enters and two screws holding the cover. Check the drive gears: If you don’t see any grease, apply lithium grease to lubricate the gears. Be sure not to overfill—just a small amount is sufficient. Replace the cover and secure it with the two screws. Ensure the two studs on the cover fit properly into the corresponding holes in the clipper body. Check the black rubber washer around the armature shaft. Sometimes it falls off if the clipper body is tilted down. Make sure it’s in place before reassembling. Once everything is reassembled, put a few drops of oil in the oil hole in front to lubricate the bronze blade block. Your clipper should be properly lubricated and ready for use!

Signs that it’s time to replace the carbon brushes on your clipper include: The motor sputters or runs intermittently or won't start at all. When the clipper is turned on, it may stop and start or fail to run consistently. Replacing Carbon Brushes: Locate the Brushes: Some clippers have externally accessible brushes, making them easier to replace. Other brands, like the Andis AGC/AGR/Ultraedge, have internal brushes that require disassembling the clipper to access. For models like the Andis SMC, the motor gets replaced instead of the sealed brushes. Orientation of Brushes: Carbon brushes have a curved end that matches the curve of the round armature. Be sure to orient the brush correctly when replacing it. Additional Tips: Brush replacement kits often include new springs, so be sure to replace the spring when you replace the brushes. On Oster A5 clippers, the brushes have a brass cap with a plastic insulator on top. The process is generally the same for all models: remove the old brushes, add the spring and cap, and reassemble the clipper. Replacing worn-out brushes will ensure your clipper continues to run efficiently and prevent further motor damage.

A variable speed clipper provides enhanced control, letting you adjust the speed based on the grooming task at hand: Slower speeds are ideal for sensitive pets, as they reduce noise and vibration, creating a more comfortable grooming experience. Higher speeds offer more power for tackling tougher coats or cutting more quickly, improving efficiency. For example, the Oster Clipmaster VS is a variable speed clipper designed for large animals, allowing you to switch speeds based on your needs. Most pet grooming clippers are typically 2-speed, while some models have 3 speeds. The Andis AGR stands out with its 5-speed options, giving you even more flexibility for different grooming tasks.

Blade rattle is most commonly caused by one of the following issues: Bent or Broken Wing on the Blade Socket: If the socket wing is bent or broken, it can cause improper alignment, leading to rattling. This part will need to be replaced. Weak Hinge Tongue: If the hinge tongue is weak or no longer fully opens, it can cause instability and rattling. In this case, replacing the hinge is necessary. Worn Blade Drive: A worn-out blade drive may result in noise and poor cutting performance because it doesn’t move the blade cutter back and forth as it should. Blade drives wear over time and require periodic replacement. Loose internal screws or broken housing components inside the clipper Inspect these components to identify the issue, and replacing the necessary parts should fix the rattling problem.

Here are common issues and solutions for the Oster Clipmaster clippers: Wire Break at the End of the Power Cord (Strain Relief Issue): The clipper intermittently turns on and off, especially when moved around. This issue often occurs at the strain relief area of the power cord. It requires splicing and soldering to replace the power cord. It's recommended to take it to a professional for repair to ensure it is done correctly. Air Filter and Clipmaster Head Maintenance: Ensure the air filter screen is clean to allow proper airflow, which prevents the clipper from overheating. If you have a compressor, use it to blow out any accumulated hair from both the air filter and the clipper head. Keep the drive block oiled for smooth operation. Broken Yokes: The clipper may fail to move the cutter properly or make a rattling sound. The yokes can break, especially in older models. Replacing the yoke is necessary. The newer yokes feature a solid bar, which is more durable and less likely to break. Replacement yokes are available. Tension Knob Assembly Issues: Loss of blade tension or inability to adjust the blade properly. The tension knob assembly contains a metal bar that adjusts the yoke for proper blade tension. If this bar breaks, the blade tension can’t be properly adjusted. In such cases, replace the tension knob assembly. Brushes Getting Hung Up After a Drop: The clipper doesn’t run after being dropped, or there’s a loss of power. Tap the side of the clipper body where it bulges out near the brushes. This can free up a hung brush and allow the spring to push it back against the armature. If the brush is worn or broken, replace the brushes. Loss of Power (Armature Failure): The clipper loses its usual power or becomes sluggish. The armature may have failed, with some commutator segments damaged. Replacing the armature is necessary for restoring power to the clipper. Replacement armatures are available. Broken Coil Holding Pins: The clipper’s power is inconsistent or it doesn’t run smoothly. If the coil holding pins inside the clipper body are broken, the entire Clipmaster body will need to be replaced to secure the coil in place. By diagnosing and servicing these common issues, you can keep your Oster Clipmaster running at optimal performance. For more complex repairs (like power cord replacement or armature replacement), it’s recommended to consult a professional to ensure proper handling and repair.

How to Replace the Rear Switch on Oster A5/76 Clippers The most common issues with the Oster A5/76 rear switch are: The switch nut no longer holds the switch in place, causing movement that may break internal wires. Dropping the clipper on the switch can cause damage. The brass switch contacts may fail to make contact inside. How to Diagnose & Repair the Switch: Unplug the Clipper: Always unplug the clipper from the power source before working on the switch. Refer to a Guide: If needed, refer to the photo under "Clippers" on this website for guidance, or take your own photo for reference. Remove the Housing: Take out the two screws from the switch housing. Be cautious not to lose the small washers that sit on the screws. Inspect the Internal Components: Inside the housing, you’ll find two brass terminals and one screw connection point without a terminal. Pay attention to the orientation of the switch for reassembly. Disconnect the Wires: Remove the screw that holds the center switch wire and the other wire attached to the power cord. Take off the brass terminal that holds the two switch wires (one comes from the power cord). Remove the Switch Nut: Remove the switch nut from the opposite side of the clipper and push the switch out for further inspection or replacement. Reassemble Carefully: This process requires attention to detail to ensure the proper reassembly of all components. Important Note: If you're not comfortable working with internal wiring, I recommend sending your clipper to a professional for repair. Why do my Oster clippers run in the "off" position? If your Oster A5/76 clipper is experiencing a short and causing constant contact instead of switching on and off, follow these steps to resolve the issue: Check the wiring for any visible damage, loose connections, or wear that could cause a short. If necessary, replace the switch to ensure proper function. Ensure that the brass contacts inside the switch housing are properly aligned with the brass contacts at the rear of the clipper. If the contacts aren’t meeting correctly, gently bend them up to make sure they connect properly when the switch is activated. By adjusting the contacts and replacing the switch if needed, you can restore proper on/off functionality. If you're unsure about the repair process or the issue persists, it’s best to send your clipper in for professional service if not local. How do I fix loose or recurring hinge screws on my Oster A5/76 clippers? If the hinge screws on your Oster A5 or 76 clippers are loose or keep coming out, follow these steps to secure them properly: Buy a thread-locking product like Loctite or a similar screw thread locking adhesive. Clean the screw threads with a solvent thoroughly to remove any oil or debris. Clean the holes where the screws thread into to remove any oil or residue that might prevent proper adhesion. A Q-tip dipped in a solvent makes this easier. Apply the thread locker to the screw threads and screw the hinge back in securely. Optional: If the screws still don’t stay in place, you can add a small bell washer under the screw head to help hold it firmly. Check Brass Inserts If your clipper model uses brass inserts, ensure they are not pulling out of the clipper casing. Over-tightening the hinge screws can cause the brass inserts to loosen or come out. If the inserts are pulling out, this indicates a more serious problem, and you may need a new case. If the inserts can be pulled all the way out, you can clean the inserts and use super glue (such as Crazy Glue) to reattach them, but be careful not to get glue inside the screw holes, or you won’t be able to reinstall the screws properly. By following these steps, your hinge screws should stay secure and functional. If the brass inserts continue to cause issues, a replacement case may be necessary. How to Replace the Housing on an Oster A5 Clipper: Replacing the housing on an Oster A5 clipper is a complex repair, and it’s not recommended for DIY projects without the proper tools and knowledge. If you’re still interested in tackling the repair yourself, I can guide you through the process. Feel free to email me at brucesharp1@yahoo.com, and I’ll provide additional details. However, it’s generally better to consider professional repair to avoid causing further damage to the clipper. When to Grease Your Oster A5 and 76 Clippers: Open the drive cover and remove the lever, link, and gear. Check the gear for visible grease. If it's low or absent, it's time to grease your clippers. Squeeze grease into the gear post hole until it begins to come out of the two side holes on the gear post. Add a bit more grease around the area to ensure full lubrication. Oil the two felts by the blade drive and the bearing in the front to keep everything running smoothly. Before reassembling, make sure the gear washer is in place at the bottom of the post—sometimes it pulls up with the gear. Check the thrust washer for any holes in it at the front of the armature. If not worn through, reverse it; otherwise, replace it. (It’s the small black plastic square.) If the blade drive looks worn, replace it. Greasing Other Clippers: For Wahl clippers, open the case and inspect the drive gear. Grease the gear and drive pin. For Oster Clipmaster heads, grease them occasionally as well to maintain performance. For Andis clippers, only the blade drive needs a small amount of grease. They come pre-greased. Regular greasing and oiling are key to keeping your clippers running efficiently and ensuring they last longer. Make sure to stay on top of maintenance!

Technically, there’s no difference—both terms refer to the same tool. However, in the hairstyling industry, "shears" is often used to distinguish professional salon scissors from traditional barber scissors. Salon Shears: Come in a variety of styles, including blenders, thinners, and chunkers, with either bevel or convex edges for precision cutting. Barber Scissors: Traditionally have a simple, straight bevel edge, designed for classic barbering techniques. While the terms are often interchangeable, salon professionals prefer "shears" to emphasize the specialized tools used for advanced cutting techniques.

Professional scissor sharpening is done using specialized sharpening machines that ensure the correct angle for each blade. Sharpening Methods: Beveled-edge shears (e.g., Gingher’s, carpet shears): Sharpened at two different angles—one around 45° and the other at 20°. Flat-edge scissors (e.g., Fiskars): Sharpened using an abrasive belt machine. Convex-edge scissors (e.g., high-end salon shears): Require precision honing with multiple grit abrasives.

If your scissors won’t cut, it’s often due to: Dropped scissors: A small nick on the blade disrupts the edge and must be sharpened. Loose scissor screw: Hold the blades 90 degrees apart, then let the top blade drop. It should stop about ¼ of the way down. If not, tighten the screw. Dull blades: Regular use naturally wears down scissor edges. If there’s no damage or looseness, your scissors likely just need professional sharpening.

If your scissor tips cross too far: The bumper is likely missing or broken and needs replacement. The scissor handles may have spread too far and need adjustment using a scissor handle tool. If the scissor tips don’t come together: The handles need to be bent closer together. However, if the steel is too hard, another correction method is required. These adjustments should be made by a professional sharpener to avoid damaging the scissors.

If your scissor screw keeps loosening, check for these issues: Oil on the threads reduces friction, allowing the screw to loosen. Worn or poorly made threads can prevent secure tightening. Missing washer under the screw head, which helps keep the pivot stable. Oversized screw hole that doesn’t grip properly. How to Fix a Loose Scissor Screw Clean oil off the screw threads using a solvent. Apply a thread-locking product before tightening. If the screw threads are damaged, replace the screw. Some scissors have a split-body screw that can be widened for better grip—your sharpener can assist with this.

Different types of grooming and haircutting scissors serve specific purposes: Blenders: Both blades have spaced teeth. Thinners: One blade has teeth, while the other is solid. Chunkers: Similar to thinners but with larger teeth gaps, ideal for blending thick coats. Curved Thinners & Chunkers: Designed to follow the natural shape of pets for smoother blending.

Scissors are made from various steel types, affecting sharpness, durability, and flexibility. Inexpensive scissors often use soft metal or cast iron, which is brittle and hard to adjust. Quality scissors are heat-treated, ensuring hardness while maintaining flexibility. Manufacturing flaws may result in one blade being too hard and the other too soft, causing breakage if adjustments are needed.

High-quality scissors undergo heat treatment for durability and edge retention. Hardening Process: Steel is heated until red hot and then rapidly cooled (quenched) to increase hardness. If left untreated, the blades become too brittle. To balance strength and flexibility, scissors are reheated to around 400°F. Why Does Hardness Matter? Professional grooming & salon scissors maintain their edges longer and resist breaking. Kitchen scissors are softer and require frequent sharpening. Cheap cast-metal scissors are hard but prone to chipping and breaking.

Scissors work as a lever, and their tension affects how they cut. If the scissor screw is too loose, the blades lose tension near the tips, causing hair to fold instead of cutting cleanly. To maintain proper tension, scissor blades have a slight curve, known as the "set." If this curve is too shallow, the blades won’t close properly at the tips. Additionally, the inside line of the blade must be even from the pivot screw to the tip—if not, the scissors won’t cut effectively, especially near the tip. Some new scissors may be over-ground near the pivot, requiring honing for proper performance.

Scissor Grinder: Uses an abrasive wheel (aluminum oxide, diamond, or CBN). Sharpens small sections of the blade at a time. Offers precise angle control for consistent sharpening. Scissor Hone: Uses a flat round wheel with replaceable grit discs. Sharpens the entire blade edge at once on straight edge scissors.. Some hones allow rolling angles for convex scissors, while others require freehand sharpening which can be quite inconsistent depending on operator skill. Which Is Better? Hones are preferred for convex blades generally but both types can do convex. Grinders provide more precision for other scissor types. Both methods include a final polishing step for a smooth, sharp edge on salon and grooming scissors.